Mizuna
Mizuna
Denver, CO
Mizuna has been on my list of places to eat for this blog. Described as Inspired French Cuisine, and being owned by one of the most popular Chefs in Denver, I was sold without hearing a pitch. Lets start with Chef Frank Bonanno's picture on their website! LOL that picture must have been taken 10 to 20 years ago but he looks happy. The restaurant is ran by executive Chef Ty Leon who is a fellow Johnson and Wales Denver campus alumni! That is awesome he worked his way up the ranks through his career. Gives me inspiration to keep on keepin' on. Proprietor Frank Bonanno does not only own this one restaurant, but his name is stamped on 9 other establishments in Denver.
Mizuna, Luca, Osteria Marco, Bones, Lou’s Food Bar, Russell’s Smokehouse, Wednesday’s Pie, Salt & Grinder—and of late two spectacular bars—Green Russell and Vesper Lounge.
The man is busy. I decided to go to Mizuna by myself on a recon mission for one of my best friend's birthday dinner I was trying to set up the next week. I went on a Wednesday evening. I already scoured the menu online before I came. Times like this is when I wish I was with someone else so more food could be ordered. I don't know how food critics can eat on their own and not waste a lot of food trying to eat everything on the menu.
I walk in the restaurant at 7pm on the dot because I made a reservation for 1 at the bar on my Open Table app. The restaurant is a lot smaller than what I was anticipating. I didn't research the size. When you enter the front door the entry is small and tight. Right behind the host stand its the open window to the kitchen. To my right is the small bar and the dining room has linen covered square tables lined in sections. There is a back room for private parties or a more intimate table seating. I am seated at the bar and I am one seat away from a old snooty couple that probably has been married for 35+ years. I could tell they had money and eating their dinner here was a normal thing to do during the week. The bartender was very professional guy but I could tell during a Bronco game he is a regular Cholo from the block.
My seat at the bar allowed me to face the wide open window and I could see all the Chefs working the line. To my surprise I see a familiar face! Kayla is a awesome chef that worked at Butcher's Bistro with my other chef and BFF Jeannette. I forgot she told us she works here! I was happy to see her on the line and looking happy. Who else do I see? Frank Bonanno himself! I was like, what the French toast?! This man owns too many restaurants why is he working the line at Mizuna??? I asked why he was working and the bartender told me he was helping out that night, he is not normally working the line. It was a treat for me to have the perfect view of him working. I felt like I was on the show Top Chef watching a celebrity chef cook for me.
I ordered a Bourbon cocktail and my food. Because I am alone I only ordered a salad and a entrée.
Salad
Mizuna-
Fondant Sweet Potato, Pickled Quail Egg, Bacon, Parmesan Cracker
Entrée
Beef Wellington-
Truffle Duxelle, Potato Aligot, Broccolini, Sherry & Black Pepper Demi-Glace
As I am waiting for my food I am served a small basket with various bread rolls and popovers. And then it hit me. This place is quiet AF! I look around the small dining room and notice two things. 1. The age demographic 45-65 years old 2. The uptight quiet pretentiousness humming in a room with absolute zero diversity. All old all white people whispering through their dinners. It was fucking weird. I just watched the movie Get Out, and I felt like I was trapped in a neurological mind fuck with no escape. I WAS seriously considering this place to take my BFF and her family to dinner the next week, but there is no way we could have a birthday dinner here! Maybe for her parents or anybody else parents who has children 30+ years old and possibly grandchildren already. Basically if you still have life in your soul and enjoy talking and laughing while having dinner with friends, then this place IS NOT for you. If you are older and like having quiet dinners with your spouse or friends and neighbors, then this place is PERFECT for you.
Despite the dining room being like a corporate business dinner party that invited their single token employee just so they can't be sued for discrimination, I was still looking forward to eating my dinner.
The salad was excellent. Lightly dressed simply with oil and vinegar, seasoned with salt and fresh cracked black pepper. The textures of crunchy parmesan crackers, soft sweet potatoes, creamy quail egg, salty bacon, and fresh greens was fine example of simple and clean food that allow the ingredients speak for itself.
After my salad, I was presented with a small scoop of Aloe Vera sorbet. This is a palette cleanser. It was one of the best sorbets I ever had. It was light, sweet but not too sweet, and refreshing.
Last but not least, my entrée. The Beef Wellington was cooked a perfect medium rare. The plate was presented very nicely. I cut in the steak and the texture is like butter, but it lacked flavor. It wasn't bland, but it didn't knock my socks off either. The Potato Aligot consistency was a little bit gummy, maybe too much cheese or it was the preparation. The demi glace didn't bring anything together on the plate and the brocollini was simply cooked. Yes this is a French classic dish, but there were no flavors that made this stand out as great Beef Wellington dish. It almost reminds me of school too much considering this is supposed to be one of the best restaurants in the Denver and the western United States, the comparison is not cool.
Maybe the Mizuna experience is being judged on the linen table clothes, the wine, the service, the prices. With that in consideration Mizuna meets the standards of a very nice restaurant. The food was good, and prepared properly. The food options on the menu are classic French culinary dishes except two that made no sense or lack imagination.
Hawaiian Kanpachi* $38
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